The BMW Thread
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Herdfan
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Eric
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Hope they don't have any tariffs. I'm out $4500 and the drone I purchased, ceased a month ago in Kentucky. We've essentially put what's always been an excellent company out of business in the United States.
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As far as I can tell the dealer is sticking to the agreed-upon price. I’m sure there are tariffs, but I don’t know who is paying it in this case. Hopefully it gets on the boat before Trump raises them again.
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Now step 12: dispatched from factory (i.e. on the way to the port).
I think it takes 6-10 weeks once it gets on a ship for it to arrive in california. Lots of time for Trump to raise and lower tariffs 3 or 4 times by then.
I think it takes 6-10 weeks once it gets on a ship for it to arrive in california. Lots of time for Trump to raise and lower tariffs 3 or 4 times by then.
Yoused
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Way things are going, he will probably come up with the idea of retroactive tariffs, forcing people to pay an excise on anything they own that was originally imported (for items valued at $750K or less).
Herdfan
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Here's to smooth sailing and hoping it's one of the first ones off the boat.
Eric
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Not sure how luxurious the Model S is/was but speaking for the Model 3 the BMW is worlds above it in every way. I was really happy to get back into a quality car again.
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I’m just looking forward to carplay, the apple wallet carkey thing, and not being seen as a Musk supporter.
Eric
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We have a lot of trouble with the car key thing with both of us having one, it's often confused and buggy. If it's just one user though it may not be an issue.
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my wife doesn’t use hers even for her own car, so I doubt she’ll use it for mine.
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For some reason, my wife’s i4 stopped opening the garage (using the mirror. carplay is fine). Spent a week trying to get the damned thing re-programmed. Finally figured it out. I actually have two radio receivers - the one built into the fancy brand new liftmaster, and one that plugs in using a dry contact connection (a liftmaster 365LM that I had bought years ago when I had a 25 year old non-rolling code garage door opener). Both are rolling code, but there’s some difference in frequency or something between them.
Turns out, to program one of them, you have to press-and-hold the mirror while you teach it the remote, whereas for the other one you have to press-and-release (and cannot hold). In both cases you have to follow up with the “learn” function on the respective receiver in the garage, of course. But the press-and-hold vs. non-press-and-hold thing was causing me fits until I figured it out.
I had been programming the yellow-buttoned-liftmaster deal all week without pressing and holding the mirror, and it doesn’t work (even though the mirror flashes green and by all appearances is learning the code). Today I finally got back the remote for the “add-on receiver” - we had lent it to our cat sitter - and that one programmed fine in the car without pressing-and-holding the mirror, on the first try. That pissed me off, so I started watching videos and one said to try holding the mirror button. It worked, twice in a row (i programmed all 3 of her buttons, 2 using that method). The manual is ambiguous about how to do it.
To sanity check myself, I then tried to program using each remote but by reversing the press-and-hold-mirror-button behavior, and it did not work.
Anyway, i wrote up a document and saved it in my Notes because I will never remember exactly what to do when my car comes, or the next time my wife somehow wipes her mirror programming again.
The Homelink people should all be deported.
Turns out, to program one of them, you have to press-and-hold the mirror while you teach it the remote, whereas for the other one you have to press-and-release (and cannot hold). In both cases you have to follow up with the “learn” function on the respective receiver in the garage, of course. But the press-and-hold vs. non-press-and-hold thing was causing me fits until I figured it out.
I had been programming the yellow-buttoned-liftmaster deal all week without pressing and holding the mirror, and it doesn’t work (even though the mirror flashes green and by all appearances is learning the code). Today I finally got back the remote for the “add-on receiver” - we had lent it to our cat sitter - and that one programmed fine in the car without pressing-and-holding the mirror, on the first try. That pissed me off, so I started watching videos and one said to try holding the mirror button. It worked, twice in a row (i programmed all 3 of her buttons, 2 using that method). The manual is ambiguous about how to do it.
To sanity check myself, I then tried to program using each remote but by reversing the press-and-hold-mirror-button behavior, and it did not work.
Anyway, i wrote up a document and saved it in my Notes because I will never remember exactly what to do when my car comes, or the next time my wife somehow wipes her mirror programming again.
The Homelink people should all be deported.
Herdfan
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The people who put the buttons on the mirror should also be sent packing. Doesn’t take long for your mirror to get tilted up on one side.
Just put them on the visor.
As for Homelink, no one in support can explain to me why I can’t program the non-rolling gate code into Homelink.
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You may need something like a Liftmaster 365LM (https://www.amazon.com/Liftmaster-365LM-Security-Receiver-315Mhz/dp/B00283OBS4). That’s how I got around that problem in the past with a non-rolling code garage opener.
You hook this thing up to the dry contact terminals on the opener, program a spare homelink remote to work with the 365LM, then use that remote to program homelink in your car. That’s assuming you have someplace to wire the thing up - it requires 120V, though there’s probably a transformer in it that can be bypassed to work off a DC voltage if necessary.
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yeah, if it’s not your gate then you may be screwed. Modern cars are now a crapshoot with those old DIP-switch based openers. My old opener was DIP-switch. My 2013 Tesla worked with it. My wife’s 2019 BMW X3 did not (which is why I had to hack it with the 365LM, until I replaced the opener with a modern one).
The only other thing you could try is to buy a universal homelink remote, see if you can teach it the gate’s code, then use the remote to program the car - I’ve seen some people claim success with that, but I have no idea what kind of remote they’ve tried.
diamond.g
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Why don't you guys use myQ instead of homelink?
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1) don’t want to pay a monthly fee
2) they’re scummy - about a year ago they intentionally bricked third party bridges to HomeKit and other similar ecosystems, so they can make even more money. This also means they don’t work with HomeKit triggers; etc.
3) a physical button to open the door is nicer than touchscreen
4) one of my cars has no support for myq
What I have done; though, is take an old secure+ wall button and solder wires to the switch poles, and then connect those wires to a Meross HomeKit garage door adapter. I also attached the 365lm to those wires. So I can open the door via Siri or CarPlay, as well as with my old car which doesn’t support CarPlay or yellow button home link.
Essentially I added a standard dry contact interface to my brand new myQ opener; because fuck myQ and their business model.
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btw, if you, too, want to Fuck the ManQ, but you don’t know how to solder, buy this:
www.garadget.com
Or, if you don’t feel comfortable attaching two wires to your opener (the same terminals where wall buttons connect), you can buy this:
www.garadget.com
Security+ 2.0 Wired Dry Contact Adapter – Garadget
www.garadget.com
Or, if you don’t feel comfortable attaching two wires to your opener (the same terminals where wall buttons connect), you can buy this:
Security+ 2.0 Wireless Dry Contact Adapter – Garadget
www.garadget.com
